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Time to get hairy


Time to get hairy
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Time to get hairy

Hairy crab is back in season and eateries are offering dishes which boast its sweet meat.

Singapore, October 25, 2012

Hairy crab season is back again and restaurants are showcasing the crustacean¡¯s sweet flesh and creamy roe.

From Li Bai¡¯s steamed fresh mushroom rolls with hairy crab meat and roe to Peony Jade¡¯s deep-fried crab roe and goose liver rolls with fried prawn medallions, the variety of dishes available this year makes a sumptuous feast for all budgets.

The Shanghainese favourite, from Yangcheng Lake in China¡¯s Jiangsu province, is commonly dipped in vinegar and served with ginger tea to balance the crab¡¯s cooling ¡°yin¡± effect.

Do not worry about making a mess, as the steamed crab is generally prepared so that diners do not have to work too hard to get at the sweet crabmeat.

The shell, lungs and pincers are removed. Using a special pair of scissors, the legs are cut in half, with the narrower part of the leg used to push out the flesh from the bigger piece.



According to the Agri-Food & Veterinary Authority, the import of hairy crab from places such as China, Hong Kong and Japan, was 20 tonnes last year, one tonne more than in 2010, when the crab harvest was affected by erratic weather. The crabs can weigh more than 200g each and are in season from September to November, when it is the best time for eating the roe.

The prickly issue of fake hairy crabs C where vendors in China sometimes pass off similar crabs from Nanjing or Gucheng lakes as the real thing from Yangcheng Lake C has not plagued Singapore yet, so restaurateurs tell SundayLife!.

Mr Robert Han, group general manager of The Quayside Group which owns the Peony Jade restaurants at Keppel Club and Clarke Quay, says: ¡°Peony Jade has no issues sourcing and obtaining authentic hairy crabs. However, the restaurant brings in only 30 pieces of hairy crabs a day to ensure freshness and quality.¡±

He, like Tunglok Group¡¯s chief operating officer Ricky Ng, works with long-time suppliers who are approved by the AVA. The restaurants under Tunglok Group bring in an average of 550kg worth of hairy crabs every year.

This year, Paradise Group is introducing hairy crab to Paradise Pavilion at Marina Bay Financial Centre and Canton Paradise at I12 Katong. Previously, the seasonal delicacy was available only at Taste Paradise at Ion Orchard. A spokesman for the group says: ¡°We brought in more than 800kg of hairy crabs last year and have ordered almost three times more this year. Customers who have tried it will order the set menus, while those who have not and are curious will usually order the a la carte dishes.¡±

Noting the versatility of the crustaceans, Ms Justina Loh, marketing communications manager of Goodwood Park Hotel, says: ¡°Hairy crab can be enjoyed in a variety of ways, such as steamed, baked and braised. For those who want to enjoy the hairy crabs at home, buy the special scissors that comes with a ¡®crab pick¡¯ extension.¡±

For human resource manager Clare Tey, 38, hairy crab season is her ¡°annual indulgence¡±.

She says: ¡°I like that the restaurants help to dissect the crab for you so that you can enjoy the crab without getting your hands messy.¡±

Housewife Jacintha Choo, 54, says: ¡°I prefer eating the hairy crab when it is part of a dish such as shark¡¯s fin or with noodles. I also make sure I ask the staff where the crabs are from as well as the weight of the crab so that I get the best roe.¡±


euniceq@sph.com.sg



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